Just about every novice fly-fisher quickly realizes their need for a pair of waders. Waders are not complex pieces of clothing, actually they are very simple. There are, however, some things to look for when trying to figure out what style and brand to purchase.
The first question to ask yourself is what sort of fishing or hunting you do the most. Do you cold water wade in rivers? Do you restrict yourself to warm weather fishing? Temperature of the water, season of the year and type of wading environment (branches, etc.) play an important part in helping you make your decision. If you wade a lot of warm weather and warm waters then you will want an ultralight/breathable pair of waders that you will be comfortable in during warm spells when fishing. If, on the other hand, you fish cold waters and cold weather, or you hunt in areas where the waders will be constantly exposed to sticks and branches then neoprenes are what you will want. You will also need to consider whether you only wade or if you will be belly-boating or using a pontoon boat as well; belly-boating is very hard on the crotch seams of ultralight/breathable waders.
Material:
Let’s look at neoprene waders for a moment. Neoprene waders usually come in two weights: 3-millimetre or 5-millimetre thickness. The shop can tell you which are which, but you can also tell simply by picking them up. The 3mm waders are floppy and feel flimsy. The 5mm thickness is much stiffer and feels much more robust. 5mm are the preferred thickness of most fly-fishers, although warm water. They provide more insulation against cold water than do the 3mm and greater puncture protection should you brush up against sticks.
A nice quality about neoprene waders is that they fit around the wearer’s legs fairly smoothly and do not produce “elephant legs” that have a wide “sail” for flowing water to catch in and push against; especially custom fit neoprenes. This allows the wearer to wade more easily in a current. The old-style standard rubber waders have a lot of extra material hanging about and it catches the current, thus putting more pressure on the angler.
The old style rubber waders are still made and you can still find them in places like Walmart. They are terrible things that deteriorate quickly. I used to wear them duck hunting when I was young and I’d have to replace them almost every year; the rubber lining inside would just crack and flake off. I don’t recommend these if you are going to fish more than a few times a year.
Ultralight/breathable waders have come a long way over the past decade and are very popular. They are made from lightweight but tough nylon. The seams are glued and heat sealed with a strip of material inside the wader to ensure a waterproof seal. They are great for warm weather fishing but do not insulate you at all, so remember to wear a lightweight absorbent pair of sweats or something similar inside them in warm weather and insulated leggings in colder weather/water. Wearing something over your legs not only absorbs sweat and keeps you warm, but also prevents chafing around the backs of your knees.
Don’t wear breathables if you belly-boat. The constant kicking motion and strain at the crotch can work the glued tape at the seams free and they will leak. I went through two brand new pairs back to back on two outings and then decided they were not made to withstand that sort of stress. So . . . good for warm wading, not as good for cold wading and bad for belly-boating.
What’s on Your Feet?:
Whether you are interested in standard rubber, breathable or neoprene waders, you have to decide between stocking foot or boot foot waders. Stocking foot waders allow the wearer to use scuba fins when belly-boating or pontoon-boating, as well as wearing wading boots to wade in. The boot foot waders have built in boots and thus you don’t need to buy wading boots, but if you want to belly-boat then specialized fins are needed to strap on over the boots. For hunting you will want a boot foot wader. Wearing stocking foot waers and wading boots simply invites sticks and debris and mud to get into your boots. Even with gravel guards the garbage will end up in your boot.
Seams:
Regardless of the type or style of waders you are interested in you should check out the seams of the waders. On all waders the seams should be heat sealed or glued and taped. I once had a pair of ultralight waders I just loved . . . for two whole outings. On the second outing the tape inside the seat area pulled free and I got soaked. These were not cheap waders either; they were just of poor workmanship and design. It pays to stick with well known brand names when looking for waders. You may pay a little more, but not always. And it’s worth it in the long run.
Check with the shop to make sure there is a return warrantee on any waders you buy so that if a leak occurs you can return them at no charge.
Knees:
The old rubber waders and most ultralight waders usually won’t have knee patches, but any neoprene wader worth the money will. You need the knee patches to protect the wader itself when you kneel down, especially if you wade in salt water. Rocks with barnacles on them make short work of unprotected wader knees.
Shoulder Strap Style:
Shoulder straps on neoprene chest waders are either sewn on elastic straps that close using plastic snap closures, or made as a part of the wader from the same piece of neoprene and close with Velcro strips. I prefer the latter type as they do not lose their elasticity over time.
Sizing:
When buying waders make sure you try them on in the shop. The key things to look for are crotch/leg length, foot size, and shoulder strap fit. The crotch length should be long enough to allow you to raise one leg at least to 90 degrees off the ground without pulling on the crotch seam. The older, cheap rubber waders and some ultralights are notorious for being too short in the leg and they will tear at the crotch seam whenever you walk down a trail and have to step up to clear a log or other obstacle.
Foot size is important as well. If you are looking at stocking foot waders get a foot size that fits a bit loose (but not have extra material folding around your foot when in the boot) with a wool sock on. If you have a tight-fitting foot you will get cold feet easier and put excess strain on the seams in the foot. If you buy the boot style, then the foot should fit comfortably with a wool sock on like a normal boot; too loose and you will be unstable wading in the river and could more readily roll an ankle or fall in.
The shoulder strap length should be long enough to comfortably fasten the waders on with a jacket under them. You will be wearing warm clothing a lot of the time when you are wading and you have to ensure that the waders are long enough in the strap to accommodate the extra bulk.
Lastly, check out the manufacturer’s warrantee, if there is one. Some companies’ warrantee their waders for life against faulty workmanship, others offer no warrantee at all. A good wader with a good warrantee offers you long term piece of mind. Keep it in mind when selecting your new waders.
Wading Boots:
If you decide to get stocking foot waders you will need a pair of wading boots. There are a ton of different manufacturers out there and a vast range of price points as well. Rather than go there I will simply tell you your options.
Wading boots should be tried on with your waders on. Take the waders with you or borrow a pair of the same thickness at the shop so that you will get the correct fit. I have found that wading boots usually end up a full size larger than my normal shoe size, but that can vary from company to company as well.
The soles of wading boots come in either felt soles, hobnail cleat soles or a combination thereof. Felt soles are light, comfortable and replaceable. They help your feet grip the rocks when the bottom has slime and algae on it. Other soles have punch-in or screw-in hobnails like the Nazi jack-boots or the old logger’s hobnail caulks. These are harder on the feet and hard on floors if you don’t take them off but they grip really well. The screw-in style allows for fairly easy replacement of worn down or lost nails but the punch-ins usually have to be replaced by a professional.
Waders are not cheap, but if you apply the points I mentioned in this article when you buy you should come away with a pair that will last you many seasons. You need not spend an exorbitant amount of money either; most reliable manufacturers make a whole line of different waders so be particular but practical for your own needs and you’ll do well.
-SDG-
Best in Waders
Best For Fishing: Simms G3 Guide Waders
Simms is known for quality and these waders are no exception. Lightweight and durable these stocking foot ultralights will serve you for years, and if they don’t they have one of the best short and long term warrantees in the business.
Pro’s:
Stocking Foot
Multiple material layers for warmth and protection
Two chest pockets
Includes belt
Built in gravel guards
Great warrantee
Con’s:
Expensive
Best for Hunting: Frogg Toggs Grand Refuge 3.0 Boot Foot
If you are into hunting then these waders are for you. Good hunting waders are not cheap, so much so that I chose these waders as the best overall partially because of their price in comparison to other brands out there.
Pros:
1 year warrantee
Reasonable price
Zip out inner liner for added warmth
Comes in a front zipper model as well
Reinforced knee, shin and seat
Wading belt
Cons:
Small chest pocket
Best Budget Waders: Frogg Toggs Canyon II
Frogg Toggs strikes again. While not the most fashionable wader, the canyon II performs at a budget price. Although a bargain price, Frogg Toggs still covers them with a good warrantee.
Pros:
Multi-layer upper
Wading belt included
Attached gravel guards
Zippered Front chest pocket
Warrantee
Cons:
Not as durable as higher end waders
